"KING BROTHER! AFRICA IS VERY NICE! ME AND YOU WE ARE LIKE THE SAME, WE ARE BROTHERS. YES! KING BROTHER! IT IS NICE LIKE THAT IN AFRICA! BARACK OBAMA!" And so on, he shouted at me as I approached the ticket window at the bus station. The man in the window seemed nonplussed when I stated my inquiry. It was a rather simple question.
"How often does the bus run between Dori and Kaya, at what times, and how much does it cost"? However my question was overpowered by the tall man yelling at me in broken, rehearsed, english. I had gotten the same verbal assault the first time I arrived in Dori. That time he was wearing tight fitting jeans, beige boots, and a 50 Cent tshirt. Now he was wearing traditional african garb, complete with a white prayer cap. He stood directly next to me as I tried to communicate with the man in the window. I began to wonder, "when is this idiot going to ask for money like a normal bus-station leech". I finally got my information and continued to ignore the screaming moron to my left. It is common courtesy in west africa to say hello to people when they greet you. But I figure social decorum doesn't matter when I'm not concerned with starting or maintaining even the most casual of relationships.
I walked across the street and sat down at my usual spot at a roadside rice stand. Oh no, here he comes, hes following me, hooray.
"KING BROTHER, YOU DON'T EVEN SAY HELLO? WE ARE LIKE BROTHERS OUR SKIN COLOR THAT DOES NOT MATTER". The man who runs the restaurant and I exchanged a knowing look as he served me my plate of rice. I ate quietly while the man from the bus station stood next to me and attempted conversation, to which I didn't respond.
Finally, realizing that he was getting nowhere, he asked me.
"My friend I am hungry give me 300cfa". I felt some sense of relief at this as I now had a good excuse to tell him to bother someone else, that I wasn't a tourist, and that I don't give money away to people. I exchanged looks with the restaurant owner (a friend of mine) again, and he asked the man to leave politely in Mooré.
The bus station is rife with hangers on like this. There are the occasional tourists that make it out to Dori and these "guides" offer to take them on camel rides, to see the dunes, etc. There is even a man on the bus who telephones ahead if there is a "nasarra" bound for Dori. However tourism isnt an enormous industry in Dori so many of these "guides" find it hard to get work, and end up guilting people in to giving them money. Im a target because I'm white, and it is assumed that I have money. The result is that even when I pass by the station, or go to make a simple inquiriy, I'm harassed by these men. I've gotten pretty good at deflecting them though. If I feel particularly tired and have to go by the station I'll ask one of my Burkinabé friends to walk with me, which they are usually more than happy to do.
Well there ya go thats why I hate the bus station.
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Back in Dori
I just returned from Ouaga on a rather unpleasant bus ride. I wasn't all that well educated on the bus times from Ouaga to Dori, So I showed up at the station before noon. I found out that the bus wouldn't leave until 3 o'clock. I'm not a huge fan of bus stations; I don't know anyone who is. Save Brandon Bennage; who spends his time there with a guitar for the purpose of entertaining the homeless. He's got a great heart that Bennage, I don't know anyone else who would spend an entire night in a greyhound station strictly for the entertainment of others, out of the goodness of his pure and altruistic heart.
I was fairly tired, and the heat wasn't helping, so I tried resting against a wall to read. I was asleep in about 30 seconds. 45 minutes had passed when I awoke, and some kid was trying to sell me a bag full of eggs. This all seemed normal. I realize that I'm becoming comfortably desensitized to the absurd. This is probably to my benefit. I don't think that this kind of work is for those who have strong convictions about that way things ought to be. If you spend all your time here lucidly aware of the cultural differences, and the day to day difficulties; you run the risk of losing it. It's necessary to procede with your work, knowing that it will matter in the long run, but at the same time accept the world around you as is. You have to go with the flow of things. Going against the grain is a surefire way to wear yourself out. Im not advocating apathy by any means; but this kind of work I believe requires collaboration and cultural understanding. Coming in to Burkina as an American is difficult, and it is necessary to make slight mental changes.
Ouaga was very refreshing; I attended a closing of service party for the volunteers who arrived here 2 years ago. There was lots of food and drink, and even a dance number by the departing volunteers. Ouaga is the closest thing to America that one can find in Burkina Faso. There are many restaurants, bars, and night clubs that cater to tourists, and ex-pats. I managed to have a breakfast of bacon, eggs, hashbrowns, and something resembling coffee at the International School of Ouagadougou. The only thing missing was some aging waitress who calls me 'hon' and refills my coffee faster than I can drink it. I miss her a whole lot. My coffee arrived warm halfway through my meal, and when I asked for a refill I was charged for another cup and it took 15 minutes. Despite the coffee situation, the meal was one of the best Ive had in months and I left ISO with a smile on my face.
Despite its nicities, there is a madness to Ouaga, an energy and bustle that can become very overwhelming. The throngs of motos spewing fumes, the animal smell, and calls of vendors combined with the fact that Americans stick out like a sore thumb holding a $100 bill. Its like no city I've ever experienced. It was a good couple of days, with plenty of cold drinks and good food. But I am very happy to be back in familiar Dori, with my books, and my familar market. My neighbors were very glad to see me returned, and I ate and drank tea with them. When I returned to my house last night I found that I have electricity; which filled me with unexpressable joy. I immediately found the fan I had stored away, stripped down, and sat in front of it reading in my underwear with a smile on my face.
The Japanese volunteers are going to return to Dori in several days and we are going to start work on the exposition for Dori NGOs. I am really looking forward to getting some real work done.
I was fairly tired, and the heat wasn't helping, so I tried resting against a wall to read. I was asleep in about 30 seconds. 45 minutes had passed when I awoke, and some kid was trying to sell me a bag full of eggs. This all seemed normal. I realize that I'm becoming comfortably desensitized to the absurd. This is probably to my benefit. I don't think that this kind of work is for those who have strong convictions about that way things ought to be. If you spend all your time here lucidly aware of the cultural differences, and the day to day difficulties; you run the risk of losing it. It's necessary to procede with your work, knowing that it will matter in the long run, but at the same time accept the world around you as is. You have to go with the flow of things. Going against the grain is a surefire way to wear yourself out. Im not advocating apathy by any means; but this kind of work I believe requires collaboration and cultural understanding. Coming in to Burkina as an American is difficult, and it is necessary to make slight mental changes.
Ouaga was very refreshing; I attended a closing of service party for the volunteers who arrived here 2 years ago. There was lots of food and drink, and even a dance number by the departing volunteers. Ouaga is the closest thing to America that one can find in Burkina Faso. There are many restaurants, bars, and night clubs that cater to tourists, and ex-pats. I managed to have a breakfast of bacon, eggs, hashbrowns, and something resembling coffee at the International School of Ouagadougou. The only thing missing was some aging waitress who calls me 'hon' and refills my coffee faster than I can drink it. I miss her a whole lot. My coffee arrived warm halfway through my meal, and when I asked for a refill I was charged for another cup and it took 15 minutes. Despite the coffee situation, the meal was one of the best Ive had in months and I left ISO with a smile on my face.
Despite its nicities, there is a madness to Ouaga, an energy and bustle that can become very overwhelming. The throngs of motos spewing fumes, the animal smell, and calls of vendors combined with the fact that Americans stick out like a sore thumb holding a $100 bill. Its like no city I've ever experienced. It was a good couple of days, with plenty of cold drinks and good food. But I am very happy to be back in familiar Dori, with my books, and my familar market. My neighbors were very glad to see me returned, and I ate and drank tea with them. When I returned to my house last night I found that I have electricity; which filled me with unexpressable joy. I immediately found the fan I had stored away, stripped down, and sat in front of it reading in my underwear with a smile on my face.
The Japanese volunteers are going to return to Dori in several days and we are going to start work on the exposition for Dori NGOs. I am really looking forward to getting some real work done.
Monday, September 7, 2009
A Cultural Exchange
Well the time is just flying by and its wild to think that I've already been here for a week. I've been settling in slowly but surely. I finally got gas hooked up and am able to cook without waiting for coals to heat up (ahh, the comforts of modern living).
The director of the school that I live near is still MIA. He really doesn't have much reason to stay in Dori, as the school year hasn't started yet. I'd really like to talk to him though, as he controls my electricity. I've been getting by just fine without it though. I just finished reading Cat's Cradle, and Breakfast of Champions by Vonnegut, and am slowly working through The God Delusion by Richard Dawkins (which I would reccommend to even the devoutly religious).
I'm just about finished with a large mural on my wall, and will try to post some pictures eventually somehow.
Last night I met up with some Japanese volunteers who are currently working here in Dori. They are with a program that is similar to Peace Corps in many respects. We went to a restaurant for chicken, fries, and beer. One of them is planning an exposition for a bunch of NGOs in Dori, and invited me to attend. Basically I'll be running a booth with information about Peace Corps. It was really nice to get out and chat for a while, even if the language barrier was sometimes a bit difficult to overcome. We spoke French, I fielded questions about the U.S., and asked a few about Japan. A good time was had by all, and we concluded that everyone will come chez-moi by the end of the week for some hommus, tabouli, and whatever else I can pull off (homemade arabic bread perhaps).
During dinner I lamented the fact that it is difficult to prepare certain foods without refridgeration. It's wise to buy meat from the market earlier in the day, if you want to get good quality, fresh meat. However, nobody wants to chow down on a hot steak at 9 a.m. when its 80 some degrees out. One of the Japanese volunteers informed me that not only do they have a fridge, but also RUNNING WATER!!!!!!!! Not to mention an generous living allowance, and even an air-conditioned palace for volunteers in Ouaga. I told him that I would be having a talk with PC Washington asap.
Apparently the application process for PC is far more competative than for the Japanese organization, so it is necessary to provide certain amenities to volunteers. There simply aren't as many applicants; and the number would drop even lower if people didn't have the nicities of modern living.
Don't get me wrong I am more than comfortable in my home right now, I live rather simply but there is something to be said for that. You don't really appreciate running water until you've had to lug two 10 gallon tanks from your pump back to your house every morning. And that cold bucket bath is so much sweeter after you've worked up a sweat.
The director of the school that I live near is still MIA. He really doesn't have much reason to stay in Dori, as the school year hasn't started yet. I'd really like to talk to him though, as he controls my electricity. I've been getting by just fine without it though. I just finished reading Cat's Cradle, and Breakfast of Champions by Vonnegut, and am slowly working through The God Delusion by Richard Dawkins (which I would reccommend to even the devoutly religious).
I'm just about finished with a large mural on my wall, and will try to post some pictures eventually somehow.
Last night I met up with some Japanese volunteers who are currently working here in Dori. They are with a program that is similar to Peace Corps in many respects. We went to a restaurant for chicken, fries, and beer. One of them is planning an exposition for a bunch of NGOs in Dori, and invited me to attend. Basically I'll be running a booth with information about Peace Corps. It was really nice to get out and chat for a while, even if the language barrier was sometimes a bit difficult to overcome. We spoke French, I fielded questions about the U.S., and asked a few about Japan. A good time was had by all, and we concluded that everyone will come chez-moi by the end of the week for some hommus, tabouli, and whatever else I can pull off (homemade arabic bread perhaps).
During dinner I lamented the fact that it is difficult to prepare certain foods without refridgeration. It's wise to buy meat from the market earlier in the day, if you want to get good quality, fresh meat. However, nobody wants to chow down on a hot steak at 9 a.m. when its 80 some degrees out. One of the Japanese volunteers informed me that not only do they have a fridge, but also RUNNING WATER!!!!!!!! Not to mention an generous living allowance, and even an air-conditioned palace for volunteers in Ouaga. I told him that I would be having a talk with PC Washington asap.
Apparently the application process for PC is far more competative than for the Japanese organization, so it is necessary to provide certain amenities to volunteers. There simply aren't as many applicants; and the number would drop even lower if people didn't have the nicities of modern living.
Don't get me wrong I am more than comfortable in my home right now, I live rather simply but there is something to be said for that. You don't really appreciate running water until you've had to lug two 10 gallon tanks from your pump back to your house every morning. And that cold bucket bath is so much sweeter after you've worked up a sweat.
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